Theth

how I almost died in the Accursed Mountains

When I was leaving Albanian Alps last October, I had a heavy sorrow on my chest. I was deeply in love with everything this place could offer. Excellent hikes, views and freedom. But if I was in love back then, now I think it’s safe to say I am lost forever.

London started to feel a little bit heavier; work sucked again, and I was more lonely than ever, so great time to book another adventure. Thank God for Wizz air and their not so expensive flights to Tirana, although low price usually means night or early morning flights, which is equal to spending the night at the airport.

At 5 am, I finally get off the plane and breath the hot, heavy air which means the holiday has started. And because Tirana airport wasn’t new to me, I could not wait to lay on the comfortable couches and wait till the first morning bus.

As Albania isn’t in the EU, you might want to consider grabbing yourself an Albanian sim card. Trust me; it is pretty handy, especially when you get lost in the mountains. First buses from Rinas airport are running from 7 am, and if you are not heading to the city centre, they will let you off near a bus station for North and South of Albania.

Theth is a tiny village surrounded by majestic peaks of the Albanian Alps. I probably cannot express myself enough when I say I felt like coming back home after a long time. But this time, it hit differently. Shpella guesthouse was a fantastic place to relax after a demanding journey, and I shared a room with two strangers.

Hey, I am Ann, from France, and this is Ignace… no, we do not travel together; we basically just met… Holy crap, how does she do that just came along to a stranger and made him her friend for a day. I couldn’t possibly ever do that, or could I? That’s the thing with solo travelling, you meet interesting people who could be your friends, and then they are gone. Some imprinted in our hearts and souls for a little longer, like Ignace.

I spent with Ignace two lovely evenings when we laughed a lot and shared thoughts and different perspectives on the world and life. He was a master of dad jokes and gave you that feeling you can speak about whatever without judgment. Even now, more than a week after our ways separated, I am still thinking about some of his thoughts. Yeah, mountain lovers are just different kinds of people!

Since I booked my tickets, I have been planning to do Theth – Valbona hike. Unfortunately, I got scared of the snow and decided to hike just to Valbona pass and then back to Theth. So I set on the road; it was 8 am, already enormously hot, and I followed the maps. The irony is that despite my love for the outdoor, hiking, and solo travelling, I have zero sense of orientation. Surprise, Surprise, I fucked up big time again. Not that I didn’t reach Valbona pass or got closer; at least I ended up somewhere, well, I don’t even know where.

After perhaps 3 hours, I reached the waterfall, and because I didn’t meet any single soul on my way up there, I decided to get a dip in the ice-cold water. Little did I know that this decision would cost me almost my life and towel.

As I walked toward the lovely blue lagoon, I misjudged my steps and slipped straight through the waterfall. I was falling for about 3 meters, if not more or less. As I was falling, I thought that’s how I am gonna die, but naked in the middle of the woods where wolfs or bears will eat my dead body or half-dead, you know. I was pretty lucky again! I felt so good that I was leaving just with a few bruises and scratches, which I assume were primarily for pulling all my strength to climb back up.

I promise to work on my orientation skills next time and get where I suppose! And I will avoid skinny dipping in insanely high areas!

Hit me up if you want some more Albanian adventures or tips!